The boat is lowered onto
a rollerable cradle,
in preparation to move
freely inside the shop.
Sections of the cockpit floor are
carefully cut away until the
entire floor is removed.
Note the broken stringer on Left side.
With the entire cockpit floor removed,
hours of grinding and repairs
to the stingers, the entire area is
prepared and cleaned for fiberglassing.
Heavy fiberglass matting
with 10 gallons of resins,
reinforce the interior hull and stringers.
Weights are used to keep
the high spot stringer in
a level form.
to cure for 7 days,
then urethane foam was sprayed under
the cabin door all
the way through to the stern.
The foam had to be
shaved at the proper level height
in preparation for the new floor.
Along the main keel,
tinfoil wrapped boards were removed
to create a water run channel
to the stern bilge pump.
Marine grade plywood is screwed down
then fiberglassed in,
creating an extremely strong flooring system.
Note the original inspection cover is duplicated
in the battery / fuel area.
Holes were cut in the cuddy cabin
to also spray urethane foam completely
filling the bow area under the V-Birth.
A total of over 25 cubic feet of foam is
now inside the hull.
In the stern below the swash plate
(directly forward of the outboard, in the well area)
The foam was removed
and the area was fiberglassed.
A solution had to be found
to install the bilge pump basket,
so I used cold-cure resin
and literally glued it in place.
A below water ground cable is also installed
for quieting the electrical system.
Utilizing Anchor marine grade wiring
and heat shrink tubing,
the new bilge pump (should you ever need it) is installed.
The remaining area below
the swash plate is vacuumed,
and prepared for.. you guessed it...more foam.
A total of 5 cubic feet of block foam
is test cut then installed, ensuring
the stern won't sink either.
Many old small styrofoam cubes
were found under the V-Berth.
This was the factory flotation.
This completed the hull restoration by
The next project was making
the transom area strong enough to support
the 75lb. kicker motor/bracket.
Note the countersunk holes on
the wooden bracket (where you screw the motor in).
Also a custom made aluminum backing plate (bottom left).
I can contest to the fact that
this Bellglass construction
is real tough stuff.
I had to grind for hours to get it this clean.
Lots of prep. and sanding too.
I used a round, stiff, steel wire
attachment on a drill to do the
narrow left side area and bottom.
used in connection with cold cure resins,
after the area was cleaned with acetone.
Note heavy fibers and powders are built up
on the Left side and along the bottom for extra strength.
|Intro||History||Known Facts||1957 Ads||Articles||Photos||Restoration||A. Nordtvedt||Links/Credits||HOME|
|Sign Guestbook||View Guestbook|