Tracklaying

Updated Oct 15/09

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Number of Pictures: of

The first step was to draw the plan on newsprint. This allowed me to make adjustments for turnouts, curve radii , clearances, turntable location etc. I then cut some 1/2" foamboard to fit the tabletop for a track base, turntable pit, and to provide the initial elevation above the waterfront. The newsprint plan was then laid on the 1/2" board and material not need for the track was cut away. Next, it was on to the turntable.

Once the turntable was finished and fitted into place, I transcribed the full-sized trackplan onto the foamboard and glued the track in place with white glue. I used Atlas flex track and Peco turnouts. I removed every other tie from the flex track and as many ties from the turnouts as I could without affecting their operation. Although the remaining ties are a little short (4 1/2' vs 6'), I think they give me the "feel" that I want without going through the exercise of handlaying all track. In any case, I'll be covering most of the ties with ballast.

I used pieces of foamboard and plywood to make small changes in elevation to avoid the "sameness" that results from laying track on a flat surface. The ballast is dirt from my backyard that had the texture and colour I wanted. I'll be ballasting the track as I go along.

The layout plan calls for two crossings with one being dual gauge. Although I had never built a crossing, I decided to tackle that one first. Initially I soldered all of the frogs. Big Mistake! In order to wire the crossing I had to isolate one track from the other. That meant I had to cut away my carefully soldered frogs and replace them with epoxy! The end result isn't a thing of beauty but it works and locomotives and rolling stock track through the crossing quite nicely. When it's ballasted, it should look OK. The wiring diagram is from "how to WIRE your model railroad" by Linn H. Westcott, Kalmbach Books, 1959.