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Northern California

The mountains of Northern California lack the high impact scenery found in the North Cascades and the Sierra Nevada Mountains.   However, the real reason why solitude is likely while hiking in the Siskiyou range, the Marble Mountains and especially the Warner Mountains is that they are far away from a major metropolitan city.  The Devils Punchbowl, a lovely lake in the Siskiyou Wilderness, 13 miles return from Doe Flat, is an eight hour drive from the Bay area or six and a half hours from Portland.  This lake wouldn't stand out elsewhere, and its not worthy of a destination in itself, but if you really wanted an alpine experience without other people around, these ranges are ideal.
In the remote northeast corner of California are two interesting oddities, the lava tubes that are the feature attraction of Lava Beds National National Monument and the little known source of these caves, the Medicine Lake Volcano.  The volcano has created over 700 lava tubes and the National Monument has made 22 of them easier to explore, only two require a park tour.  The volcano itself is unremarkable, the caldera lies beneath modest looking Medicine Lake and the most recent sign of volcanism is the 1000 year old vent, Glass Mountain. 

Redwoods National Park  

The tallest of the Redwood trees, in excess of 370ft, are found in the Tall Trees Grove, a modest hike, 3.5 miles 500ft, with a 50 person daily limit.   However there are no shortage of tall redwoods to enjoy in the multitude of state parks in the area and few if any require even a hike.  In particular the Stout Grove in of Jedediah Smith Redwoods State Park feature 300ft redwoods with very little understory.
However sometimes the understory can be an attraction all by itself.  Fern Canyon in Prairie Creek Redwood State Park features a variety of rare prehistoric ferns.
Right: Driving to the Stout Grove in Jedediah Smith Redwoods State Park
Del Norte Coast Redwood State Park features tide pools in addition to the giant trees.
Left: The terminus of the Damnation Creek trail 4.5 miles return, 1000ft loss
"One thing we learned upon our visit to this park was that the trees are much larger the further you get away from the coast. The trailhead features giant redwoods but the trees get smaller as you drop precipitously toward the ocean. The beach itself is rocky and not as private as you would expect however there are some cool sea stacks to enjoy. "
Above: Stout Grove in Jedediah Smith Redwoods State Park

Mt. Shasta

14,162ft Mt. Shasta is the second highest peak in California, and the second highest of the Cascade volcanoes. The climb is actually a non-technical scramble if you go via the Avalanche Gulch Route.

 

Right: Mt Shasta from I-5

Our climb, July 2nd 2002

"The first hour is on a gentle trail through forest hardly gaining any elevation as the trail works its way clockwise along the west side of the mountain.  Then after turning abruptly and climbing uphill you reach the Horse Camp.  There is a large cabin and many established campsites that you can use for a donation.  Beyond the campground the trail crosses a meadow on a path of carefully laid stones called Oberman's Causeway before merging onto a big rocky moraine. The hike up that moraine is the least enjoyable part of the hike but in less than two hours you reach a steep snowfield and arrive at (snow filled) Helen Lake (approx. el. 10,400ft).  There are dozens of well-established sites with rock walls to block out any wind."
Right: The trailhead at Bunny Flat
"Our summit bid began at 4am the next morning.  Conditions were perfect, as the snow was really solid giving us good grip and yet not collecting under our crampons. The most dangerous area on this route is right below the Red Banks where you cross an obvious rock fall area. "
"Getting past this area in the wee hours of the morning greatly minimizes that risk. After that  you reach a broad rock outcropping called Heart Rock. You go right at this point and head straight for aptly named Thumb Rock at the far right end of Red Banks."
Left: Red Banks
"This was the steepest segment of our ascent and it's actually a longer than it looks as it keeps on climbing until you reach a col just before a scree mound called Misery Hill.  Despite the name the grade here is fairly moderate and the views are incredible.  Once atop this heap the summit left, comes into view, a mere 300ft scramble on the far side of a broad snow filled col."
Ascent time: 6.5 hours, 13.6 miles return, 7212ft 

Mt. Shasta is a bit of an island in a small wilderness area.  Panther Meadows is pretty, but its also wildly popular with the alternative spirituality crowd.  The best photos of the mountain are taken from Lake Shastina, however its north of Mt. Shasta and is not ideal in most lighting conditions.  Lake Siskiyou is southeast but the view is partially obscured by low ridges.  Another great vista is from Heart Lake, a warm shallow swimable lake due west of the volcano.
2.2 miles return from Castle Lake, 600ft

Left: The Summit of Mt. Shasta

Near the town of Dunsmuir is the lovely Mossbrae Falls.  This broad 50ft cascade is very photogenic but its popularity has caused problem with the locals.  Parking is an issue and liability concerns have caused the city to discourage tourists from visiting the falls.

However tourist are encouraged to visit the falls of the McCloud River.   Lower McCloud Falls in particular is a popular swimming hole. 
The Trinity Alps is the second largest wilderness area in California although in this case it means longer approaches to second tier scenery.  No one destination stands out, although the big three are 72 acre Caribou Lake, the Canyon Creek Basin and the Stuart drainage which lies between them.  It would be possible to see all three on the same journey.  There is a well travelled route that crosses the 2500ft pass between Caribou Lake and Emerald & Sapphire Lakes (Stuart Fork) however to get to El Lake (AKA 'L' or 'Ell' Lake) requires a bit of skill.  Of the three options Canyon Creek is probably the most interesting, as the approach trail features several waterfalls and a side trail to lovely Boulder Lakes and Forbidden Lakes.
Caribou Lakes Trail: 19 miles return, 2500ft
Stuart Fork Trail: 29 miles return, 3300ft to Sapphire Lake
Canyon Creek Trail: 16 miles return, 2602ft, for the main basin
In a state blessed with many big powerful waterfalls McArthur Burney Falls  stands    out as perhaps the coolest one of them all. A 129ft cliff of porous volcanic rock combines with natural underground springs to create a one of a kind wall of water. Easy access and a swimable plunge pool means you can explore this wonder up close and from every angle.
Left: Lower McCloud Falls
Right: McArthur Burney Falls

Lassen Volcanic National Park 

Lassen has a bit of all the wonders associated with volcanoes.  There is a lava tube, the Subway Cave, at the junction of #89 and #44 and many thermal features including hot springs, mudpots and fumaroles.  The best of these areas is Bumpass Hell:
"The park service actually had this trail roped off when we were there in July because there was still snow on the ground. We went anyway and had no problems finding the thermal area (3 miles 400ft loss) and didn't encounter anything remotely dangerous (just stick to the boardwalks)."
At the Butte Lake entrance to the park is a hike to the top of a cinder cone.  While a unique feature in itself, the Painted Hills which can be seen from the trail are particularly photogenic.
4 miles return, 846ft
Right: Bumpass Hell

10,457ft Lassen Peak  is just a moderate day hike and has no glaciers or other technical challenges.  In fact the peak itself is not even a volcano, it is just a plug that was once inside the volcano.
5 miles return, 2100ft

Northern California North Sierras South Sierras Mojave Desert

Left: Mt. Lassen from Helen Lake