The Search for the Perfect Ball

I have an affection for all types of Dahlias, but I have always been especially attracted to the Ball type. The regularity of formation is so precise that perfection seems to be easily possible - or inevitable. But "not so quickly ", says judge after judge. "Look at that sunken centre, or that flat spot on the face, or the distortion from a circular outline when viewed from just this angle. And what about . . .".

In order to search, a person needs to have a pretty good idea of what they're looking for. So, what is a perfect Ball Dahlia? What is special to this classification that sets it apart from the others?

1. Globular Formation
   
   Although all double Dahlias have an ideal that is to approach a globular outline, Balls are the most visibly successful. Poms do it rather well, but are so small as to have little garden impact, and this criticism extends, although to a lesser extent, to the Miniature Balls as well. Only the true Ball size gives sufficient garden presence. Other classification categories always have some kind of sharpness to the floret tips to distract the eye from smooth globularity. The unfortunate inclusion in the Ball class of some dahlias that have pointed floret tips distracts drastically from perfection due to the prickly outline that occurs. That perfection of outline is so very much a part of a perfect ball that a flattened or sunken centre becomes a major flaw, and failure of the florets to dress completely back to the stem is equally fatal.
2. Fully Involute florets (Quilled)
   
   There are many Dahlias classified as Ball that have only the minimum required full involution of one half of the floret length. For these it is often necessary to pluck a floret to see if there is any quilling at all. Some portions of the bloom may meet the requirement, but often the older florets have no full involution at all. These Dahlias may be lovely, but they surely do not represent the Ideal Ball! And note the classification book "The mature florets which determine the size of the Dahlia, determine the Dahlia formation". I think we must strive to breed true Ball types with florets that are at least one half, and preferably over three quarters fully involute. The idealshould be more like 90%. When these varieties are more available, they should be given preferred attention on the show bench. There are several good examples with other good qualities as well, such as Snoho Jo Jo, Barbarry Ball, Jessie G, Kenora Fireball, L'Ancresse, Aurora's Kiss
3. Circular cross section
   
   The quilling of the floret forms a tubular object that is tapered from a point at its base, to a larger diameter at the open end. The floret count should be such that each floret will fill in the bloom in its own, unsquashed space, with each just touching its neighbors without crowding or distortion. A high floret count combined with small floret diameter can be perfect, but often the result of a high floret count is densely packed, distorted florets that become flattened ovals. Some distortion is certainly acceptable, but this article is about the search for a perfect dahlia!
4. Bloom Angle
   
   This is very difficult to call. There is a symmetry and beauty to a top sitting, spherical bloom that is very satisfying. On the other hand, a bloom presented at an angle can be displayed to show its face to a viewer at eye level. The official rules are quite loose. Perhaps we should decide on the ideal, and then strive to grow and breed toward it. My personal preference would be to leave the rules loose and let the exhibitor present the blooms to the viewer in an appropriate way. But if I had to choose, I would select symmetry.
5. Stem and leaves
   
   I think that the other aspects of symmetry that are so distinctly evident in the Ball type demand a particularly straight and flawless stem. Spur leaves are not desirable. The top leaves must compliment and frame the bloom as usual, but a bit of extra stem length to keep the bloom well clear of the foliage is part of a perfect bloom. The leaves themselves should contribute to the overall balanced presentation. There is also the possibility of contrasting stem pigmentation that can compliment the bloom.
6. Color
   
   The fact that the florets are tubular means that both the inner (face) and outer (reverse) will be visible at the same time. Many Dahlias have different colors for these two areas. In the Ball type, appropriate contrast can add an additional illusion of depth, and can also emphasize other aspects of symmetry. See photo of Hy Lustre. As an exhibitor I must concentrate on perfection of formation. As a gardener, I desire vibrant color and floriferousness. As a hybridizer I must consider all aspects, including agreeable growth habit , insect resistance, and tuber keeping qualities and production.

   Postscript
   
   I hope that you will try your hand at hybridizing or growing other hybridizers seeds in the ongoing search for the perfect Ball. If you do, perhaps a few words of advice might be appropriate. First of all do use the very best varieties as breeding stock, unless you are willing to spend several years crossing and backcrossing to get a particular trait out of some otherwise flawed variety. I mentioned to Gordie Leroux that I had used Bitsa, MB DR, in a cross with Deep South to achieve Aurora's Kiss, BA DR. He responded that Bitsa was a parent of Kenora Fireball. Apparently we both saw the potential! Continuing the lineage, my variety Hy Fire is out of Kenora Fireball X Barbarry Climax. And this year Polyventon Supreme set 5 seed for me when hand crossed with Hy Fire. I am looking forward to the potential for increased size and elegant formation that Polyventon Supreme brings, but also to a more saturated color that the Gods of chance may allow from the smaller, but well formed Hy Fire.

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