REMOVE BATTERY NEGATIVE WIRE (Black or Braid 14"Jumper to Frame)

Remove 1/4" Plywood Cover over Engine - Transmission. Tie up hinged access panel with "Bungie Cord". Remove parts shelf over engine.

Remove RED 6 Gage Wire from the front side of the Start Relay (1/4" Bolt) (Note - You may need a thin Ignition Wrench to prevent rotation of the jam nut towards the Start Relay housing)

Remove the Choke Cable from Carburetor (1/4" Nutdriver for Bolt on Clamp) Lift wire up + out of outer hole in choke lever)

Remove the Throttle Rod at the Carburetor (SAE Nut on Outside, Swivel Stud on the end of Throttle Rod). Remove the throttle rod from the bottom of Throttle Lever (Remove Cotter Pin with Long Nose Pliers). Remove Throttle Rod to outside of railcar

Remove Flexible Braided Ground Strap from bolt near starter motor.

Shut off the Fuel line at the sediment bowel on bottom of fuel tank. Remove the rubber Fuel Line from carburetor + insert # 12 woodscrew to plug line (prevents dripping on drop light + explosion hazard !)

Remove Alternator Drive Belt. Swing Alternator completely to the left (as viewed from the front of the car).

Detach Red 18 Gauge Ignition Stop wire (located on blower housing shroud. This is behind the alternator, when standing in front of the railcar. Note: Our car was equipped with a "bullet connector" about 12" beyond the crimp lug that is attached an insulated terminal on the blower housing with a # 6 Philips screw. I originally cut the wire at the blower housing, only to discover the "bullet connector" after the engine was removed !

Remove Exhaust Pipe Connection from rear of engine (rusty U-Bolt)

 

Remove Four (4) SAE 3/8" Nuts from Engine Studs (under engine mounting plate) Note: My car had two nuts + washers on each stud in a "jam nut" configuration. 3/8" Aluminum Motor mounting plate remains mounted to the railcar frame. Engine sits on a 3/8" thick rubber isolation pad on top of mounting plate.

Prepare to lift engine out of the engine / transmission compartment through the interior center of the car. NOTE: The Engine + Primary Centrifugal Clutch together weigh about 110 pounds ! This is a job for two strong people ! (It appears that it is NOT possible to remove the engine through the "engine room" 22"x 17" access door). It would be helpful to have a rectangular piece of 3/4" plywood (about 18" x 3') bridging the area over the top rear of the engine / transmission access (immediately in front of the control panel).

 

14) After you have removed engine to the workbench, CHECK and/or REPLACE the following items :

Starter Motor Alignment inside the sheet metal "Mounting Shroud". The mounting is attached to the engine via three 1/4x20 Bolts. The holes in the sheet metal "mounting shroud" are all "oversize". This "play" can allow the starter motor to be in poor alignment with the ring gear on the flywheel. Unless care is taken to insure its proper alignment, the stater motor will at times not release from the flywheel.

Replace the existing braided ground strap with a 12" length of # 6 stranded, tinned wire. You will need a compression lug with a 1/4" hole on the engine end of this wire. I used the 1/4" bolt that is at the lower, rear of the starter-mounting shroud. This is VERY NEAR the Hot Wire on the Starter Motor - Check proper mechanical alignment!

Replace the existing RED # 6 Starter Motor / Start Relay wire. (1/4" Hole in Compression Lug, 18" Length recommended). Note: Use of Lugs with larger than 1/4" hole will result in the Starter Primary Cable becoming loose ! Also, make certain that the jam nut towards the frame of the starter motor is reasonably tight ! Note that the Starter Wire connection stud uses a "jam nut" configuration.

Replace the Starter Relay

Replace the existing 1/4" copper Fuel Line with a 60" length of 1/4" rubber fuel line

Install new "see through" Fuel Filter about 10" back from the Carburetor Inlet (FRAM part number G12). The fuel filter

Install new Resistor Spark Plug CHAMPION RN-4C (a.k.a.CHAMP803) Gap = .030

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